Rod ring spacing

Message

#1 Post by **weedave** » Mon Nov 29, 2010 3:31 pm

Hi lads.

i hope yous can help me a bit . . .
i had a century ccld which i stripped the eyes off as all except one where damaged. i had intended to rebuild it as it was (originally rung for fixed spool)
In transit i broke 7" off the tip but i'd like to re ring the rod and use it

my question is should i ring it for a multiplier set up and use it for rough ground fishing and if so what spacings can i use for the rings

i'd welcome any advice or suggestions on what to do with the rod now.

thanks for your time
dave

joe10 · #2 Post by **joe10** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 12:48 pm

Hi dave
you must make sure that you have enough rings so that as the top section bends the line does not touch the rod blank.If you have a similar length rod you can take measurements from that, most rods rung for multiplier have anything from 7 to 9 rings.JOE

#3 Post by **weedave** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 10:46 am

joe10 wrote:Hi dave
you must make sure that you have enough rings so that as the top section bends the line does not touch the rod blank.If you have a similar length rod you can take measurements from that, most rods rung for multiplier have anything from 7 to 9 rings.JOE

thanks for the response.

dave

#4 Post by **fishermannum1** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 11:32 am

when building/rebuilding a rod its very important to have the rings in the right positions, first thing you need to do is find the rods spine and work from there. if there is 7" now missing from the top then the spine will now be higher up on the rod. check out this link.

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/Content/ro ... _spine.htm

#5 Post by **weedave** » Tue Dec 07, 2010 12:27 pm

fishermannum1 wrote:when building/rebuilding a rod its very important to have the rings in the right positions, first thing you need to do is find the rods spine and work from there. if there is 7" now missing from the top then the spine will now be higher up on the rod. check out this link.

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/Content/ro ... _spine.htm

thanks for that.

what do you mean when you say the spine is higher up the rod. i thought the spine was along the length of the rod and you'd install rings either on it or opposite side of the blank from it?

dave

#6 Post by **fishermannum1** » Tue Dec 07, 2010 12:47 pm

with 7" missing from the top this will leave less off a bend on the top section, so when you check for the spine you will notice that the bend on the blank will now be closer to the tip so you will have to place your rings accordingly

#7 Post by **weedave** » Wed Dec 08, 2010 11:12 am

fishermannum1 wrote:with 7" missing from the top this will leave less off a bend on the top section, so when you check for the spine you will notice that the bend on the blank will now be closer to the tip so you will have to place your rings accordingly

i get you now.

how would you go about stripping and re varnishing the rod. i thought i might as well seeing i'm putting on a new set of rings.

i figured sanding back the varnish with a very fine grit sandpaper would be a good start but i'm a bit concerned about reapplying varnish.

dave

#8 Post by **fishermannum1** » Wed Dec 08, 2010 12:33 pm

rebuilding a rod can be a long process, dont rush it. this is the way i do it, might not be the proper way but it has worked for me over the years. i use a razor to remove the old thread and wrappings from the rod, be very carefull not to cut the blank. when you have everything off use a very light sandpaper or ermycloth and rub it down, when i get it all off i always finish it with a final rub of 1250 gauge ermycloth. i then spray the blank, i find that krylon spray is very good as it has a flexible agent in it. i use a small drop of epoxy glue to hold the eye in place and whip it on, when all eyes have been done i give the threads of each eye about app; 5 or 6 coatings of very fine varnish, allowing each coat to dry before recoating. i then finish the threads off with a epoxy finish, this will stop any water getting under the threads. my final step is to tape up the eyes (not the threads) and spray the rod with a clear lacquor, this has to be done about three days later when the varnish and epoxy finish is compleaty dry and hardened or it will react with the lacquor.
i'm sure some of the other guys on here can give you some better advice on this, but this is the way i do it.

#9 Post by **weedave** » Thu Dec 09, 2010 10:57 am

fishermannum1 wrote:rebuilding a rod can be a long process, dont rush it. this is the way i do it, might not be the proper way but it has worked for me over the years. i use a razor to remove the old thread and wrappings from the rod, be very carefull not to cut the blank. when you have everything off use a very light sandpaper or ermycloth and rub it down, when i get it all off i always finish it with a final rub of 1250 gauge ermycloth. i then spray the blank, i find that krylon spray is very good as it has a flexible agent in it. i use a small drop of epoxy glue to hold the eye in place and whip it on, when all eyes have been done i give the threads of each eye about app; 5 or 6 coatings of very fine varnish, allowing each coat to dry before recoating. i then finish the threads off with a epoxy finish, this will stop any water getting under the threads. my final step is to tape up the eyes (not the threads) and spray the rod with a clear lacquor, this has to be done about three days later when the varnish and epoxy finish is compleaty dry and hardened or it will react with the lacquor.
i'm sure some of the other guys on here can give you some better advice on this, but this is the way i do it.

thanks for the info your giving me.

i'm in no rush for the project and have been practicing my wraps on the blank over and over again.

just to clarify -the krylon would be a clear coat?

i had intended to use Flexcoat epoxy to seal the wraps. it seemed the simple way to go for a beginner i hadnt taken into account varnish before applying the flexcoat epoxy, does the varnish act as colour preserver for the threads??

are you talking a spray can of clear laquer for final finish?

once againg thanks, i'm really looking forward to this project.

dave

#10 Post by **fishermannum1** » Thu Dec 09, 2010 5:05 pm

krylon crystal clear triple,.......http://www.krylon.com/products/tripleth ... ear_glaze/
i use the varnish to protect the threads
the krylon crystal is a gloss finish, but i just like to give it a coat of clear lacquer just to add that little bit more protection to the finished rod.

i also remove everything from the butt section and put on shrink tube, then use with coasters or a sliding reel seat.

#11 Post by **weedave** » Fri Dec 10, 2010 1:14 pm

fishermannum1 wrote:krylon crystal clear triple,.......http://www.krylon.com/products/tripleth ... ear_glaze/
i use the varnish to protect the threads
the krylon crystal is a gloss finish, but i just like to give it a coat of clear lacquer just to add that little bit more protection to the finished rod.

i also remove everything from the butt section and put on shrink tube, then use with coasters or a sliding reel seat.

thanks for all this. i think i'll use your tip of varnishing the treads before the flexcoat.

regards
dave

Sea Angling Ireland

Rod ring spacing

Rod ring spacing

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