Bigger Engine needed..

I need a bit of advice regarding an aux. engine
I have a Warrior 165 with a 70hp Suzuki and a 4hp Suzuki aux., the 2 problems I have with the 4hp it only moves the boat at 5 knots and it only has a small tank and as far as I know it cant be connected to the main tank. Its fine if Im a mile off Greystones on a nice day it will get me in but I have been out off Kilmore Quay a few time when the weather changed and I feel the 4hp would struggle to get me in and I dont fancy hanging over the back of the transom with a gerry can trying to re fuel it in heavy seas... so any advice on what I should go for??

When I went to buy my aux I was looking at a 4HP engine also. I was told by a few people to go for at least a 6HP as in any adverse tide/wind combination a 4HP would not move me well. I got a 6HP Johnson and it will move me at 9 knots. It has a seperate tank which sits inside the boat and holds 22 litres - and it sips the fuel. Hope this is of use.

Whats the biggest HP engine you can put on the bracket??

Whats the biggest HP engine you can put on the bracket??

That depends on the Bracket Joe.I have seen brackets that will only hold a 5-6 hp but most are good for up to a 15 hp two stroke.
Just as a guideline the engines are rated as follows. (Tohatsu and most jap two strokes)
2.5 & 3.5 are basically the same engine and same weight.
4 & 5 hp are again the same weight
6 & 8 & 9.8 are the same power head and weight
9.9 & 15 again the same.
I would normally have a few second hand engines for sale.

With the Suzuki you need to go to 6hp before you can connect to external tank.
I have 70hp main engine and 6 hp aux so quick change from one to other.
That's on a Seahog Commodore so more or less the same type of boat.

Yappo

I thought that, I want to keep the engines matching so I will look around for a 6hp Suzuki..

another question for you, sometimes when Im taking my boat out off the water it gets marked around the keel area by the 1 on the keel rollers on the trailer, do I have the trailer to deep in the water or does it have to be winched perfect straight on to the tralier??

another question for you, sometimes when Im taking my boat out off the water it gets marked around the keel area by the 1 on the keel rollers on the trailer, do I have the trailer to deep in the water or does it have to be winched perfect straight on to the tralier??

Pictures would be handy. Marked as in rubber marks or marked as in scratched? More likely it's the case that you may need to change the roller setup.

sometimes when Im taking my boat out off the water it gets marked around the keel area by the 1 on the keel rollers on the trailer

Had that problem myself and got round it by making up little plywood plates that are fixed on either side of the the keel roller brackets. This stops the sharp outside edge of the brackets gouging the gelcoat if the hull comes onto the trailer slightly askew. I'm surprised trailer manufacturers havent sorted this problem at design stage. Just rounding off the edges of the brackets would help.

Thats what must have happen to my Warrior, the boat came on to the trailer at an angle as the sea was a bit rough and it missed the roller and the sharp washers on the outside of the rollor bracket cut into the hull near the keel, I see the Warrior 175 trailers have a rubber wheel a either end of the rollers to keep the keel from moving.. I will try to modify the rollers or can I get wider rollers

Padding the sides of the existing roller brackets would be the easiest route to go. Even tying on short bits of pipe insulation with cable ties will do it, I used that before making up the plywood pads.