My First Re-build..

Just a few pics of my first attempt of re-building a rod. Put alot of hours into this "project" to get it the way i wanted it and I am pleased with the end result to say the least. The rod was in poor condition when i got it and stripping down the dodgy whippings, reel seat and aqua coloured shrink tube was quite a tough job seeing as superglue was the previous's builders answer to everything...He did however use fuji rings which were in perfect nick so these were cleaned and re-used. The joint was also loose and a "lip" had formed from use on the male joint which wouldnt let the tip push in fully so a little careful work with a file and this was sorted. Other than that I re-inforced the bottom of the butt with 2 inches of whipping to prevent anyway potential splitting of the butt using the reducer and this was all covered with shrink tube. The breakaway coasters i got from veals look to be of excellent quality aswel and the tip tape finished the job nicely....Ill have this rod for life id imagine absolutely love it! Just a quick thanks to Rockhopper and Eric off the site for the building tips and mann for setting me up with the rod..Its a conoflex highlander Btw

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nice one gearoid, she looks well, much better than my first attempt :wink:

Nice job, takes a bit of patience I'd say.

How much do you charge per eye? Mates rates like :)

Good on you Gearoid, you took the first step, now buy yourself a blank and go the whole way, each build you do will be better than the last.

Tom.

well done mate, using something that you have built youre-self, adds
a whole new dimension, to the fishing or casting expereince, a bit like
tying youre own flies , same principle. regards steve.

Good on you Gearoid, you took the first step, now buy yourself a blank and go the whole way, each build you do will be better than the last.

Tom.

Amm money?!? not sure what you mean by the whole way as i pretty much re-built this rod from the blank up? (after stripping it)

Nice job, takes a bit of patience I'd say.

How much do you charge per eye? Mates rates like :)

the going rate plus 20% :lol: :lol:

Nice job ,what did you use to finish the blank ,I've an old zipplex ,not even sure of the model, lying in the cupboard that could do with a revamp .
maybe turn it into a wee project for the winter .

Good on you Gearoid, you took the first step, now buy yourself a blank and go the whole way, each build you do will be better than the last.

Tom.

Amm money?!? not sure what you mean by the whole way as i pretty much re-built this rod from the blank up? (after stripping it)

Nice job, takes a bit of patience I'd say.

How much do you charge per eye? Mates rates like :)

the going rate plus 20% :lol: :lol:

I didnt mean anything bad by my comment, IMHO a rebuild is always just that, no matter how good a job is done, where as a new blank from start to finish (which is far easier btw) will always be thought of better.

Tom.

Good on you Gearoid, you took the first step, now buy yourself a blank and go the whole way, each build you do will be better than the last.

Tom.

Amm money?!? not sure what you mean by the whole way as i pretty much re-built this rod from the blank up? (after stripping it)

Nice job, takes a bit of patience I'd say.

How much do you charge per eye? Mates rates like :)

the going rate plus 20% :lol: :lol:

I didnt mean anything bad by my comment, IMHO a rebuild is always just that, no matter how good a job is done, where as a new blank from start to finish (which is far easier btw) will always be thought of better.

Tom.

I know ya i'd love to start with a new blank but what i meant was money or shouold i say the lack of it...

Ronald: I didnt use anything on the blank as it was in good enough condition already and didnt need re-doing..

Nice job Gearoid,

I may be the only one here that knows how much work you had to put into this rebuild as I have a rod from the same person that your rod came from.. When this guy put things onto a rod they where meant to stay on for ever.. He certainly didn’t spare the horses when he applied the glue,

It’s a pity you didn’t do a step by step just on the stripping of the materials as I think it would have helped any body else ( ME ) that may be thinking of taking on such a major job and of course it would have shown how you transformed the rod.. and only then would they know the work involved.

Well done and I’m glad to see your happy with the rod.

By the way, I also got my first mullet of the year on the sh*te fly with my new rod.. in fact I caught 2 last night and seen as I said I would have a pint for every species I caught this year.. I now owe myself 20 pints. 8)

Nice job Gearoid,

I may be the only one here that knows how much work you had to put into this rebuild as I have a rod from the same person that your rod came from.. When this guy put things onto a rod they where meant to stay on for ever.. He certainly didn’t spare the horses when he applied the glue,

It’s a pity you didn’t do a step by step just on the stripping of the materials as I think it would have helped any body else ( ME ) that may be thinking of taking on such a major job and of course it would have shown how you transformed the rod.. and only then would they know the work involved.

Well done and I’m glad to see your happy with the rod.

By the way, I also got my first mullet of the year on the sh*te fly with my new rod.. in fact I caught 2 last night and seen as I said I would have a pint for every species I caught this year.. I now owe myself 20 pints. 8)

not much to it really use a blade to cut the epoxy and thread being careful not to scratch the blank and the a blunt blade to remove the superglue which stops you damaging the blank aswel..then just clean it up and your ready to go...there might be better methids out there which i would like to hear also..
Nice one with the mullet i must try for them myself some day..loads of them around here..

Super job there weldone, the rod looks sweet!!
I use those Breakaway coasters too on the casting rods and have yet to find a neater or comfier pair.

How's the rod behaving? Are you hurting it or vice versa?

ya they are the dogs danglies alright..

hit about 180 on the very first cast(OTG) i ever did with it ...and that was with a 525mag.
hopefully a ceramic'd green mag will bring that past 200....!!

Ive read apparntly its one of the best rough ground rods ever made and "the" rod for the bronze whalers in south africa...and all for 100E!

Nice one!! That's a good belt alright, sure she'll only be softening up for ya now!!

Yip heard nothing but great reports about those rods from anyone who used them, it was some buy for that money!

Hold off on the reel a while if you can and let me know when you're up this way next.

Chat to you soon.

Hold off on the reel a while if you can and let me know when you're up this way next.

Chat to you soon.

?? I think you misunderstood me there or something i meant when i cast it with My ceramic'd 6500 i might get it past 200...i have converted one my greens with tg rockets purely for casting..no mono-mag yet tho!!

do you know of a casting reel for sale or something?

hey gearoid,nice build,looks great.i'm guessing that as its a highlander ure going to be using it for some pretty rough ground.if this is the case it might be advisable to replace the coasters with a fixed fugi reel seat.the strain on the coasters when hauling through kelp,rock etcf is pretty high and ive had 3 different makesof coasters including the yours bust because of it....

Gearoid, what Ian (lumpy) says is right about the strain on the coasters, here's a tip for putting a reel seat on when you have shrink tube right through.

1/ Measure the diameter needed for a reel seat, get a seat slightly bigger.

2/ wrap masking tape over the shrink tube where the reel seat will go, leave about 5mm short at either end. about 3 or 4 wraps should be enough for this stage.

3/ see how the reel seat fits now, if it is slack then add another couple of wraps of masking tape until the fit is enough for the seat to move but not drop back when tilted.

4/ add the glue to the masking tape, keep the glue well away from the ends and make sure you wipe any glue off the top of the seat as it gets pushed up near the end of the masking tape just before it come to the shrink tube. Turn and centre the seat to the stripper guide and leave it for 24 hours to dry.

If ever you sell the rod or if you want to change where the seat is, all you need do is heat the seat loosen the glue and it should come off....take off the masking tape and the shrink tube is as good as new.

Tom.

well the intention was to use it for the rough but after all the work i put into it i dont fell like abusing/softening it on rough ground..hence im always on the lookout for an RT Axe or similiar type poker rod...
plus being odd as always i fish up the butt and cast down the butt :roll: so a fixed reel seat is useless...