How to make home made leads WITHOUT a mould

Trust the auzzies, See attached:

http://www.australianoutdoors.com/howtomakesinkers.htm

Have an old book that suggests using large spoon as the mould for junk leads. The shape lifts the lead on the retrieve.

Donagh

Two problems and potential dangers...

If the sand or mould substrate is wet or even damp, the molten lead may spit at you. Maybe put sand into a deep baking tray and bake it in the oven to remove the moisture would be the answer, but then the sand will lose its adhesive quality and making the impressions may prove difficult - maybe a visit to your local potter for some wet clay ready for baking?

More importantly, NEVER use an aluminium saucepan for melting lead as the metal can deform with the huge heat stored in the lead, unless you like the idea of a pan full of molten lead splashing all over your feet!

A far better option is to buy a small crucible designed for melting metals and powered off a standard small butane camping gas bottle. If you must use a pan, make sure it is solid iron or stainless steel and bear in mind that lead is highly toxic and that you should ventilate the space very well.

There is a piece on how to make leads using moulds in the section on weights here: - http://www.sea-angling-ireland.org/leads.htm

FWIW...

The sand seems a good idea, but the saucepan a bad one. I got my local metal worker to weld a bottom and handle on to a piece of steel pipe.walla instant and safe crucible.

Dingbat

to melt lead, the safe way.?? well sort-of-safe.

get a 6inch lenght of 4x4 box steel, weld onto on end 1/8 sheet metal. 1inch down from the top (on a corner) weld a 6" bolt to fix a wooden handle, (ie part of a bush shaft) this will need a jubliee clip to stop the wood from cracking (it will burn, smoke) when the pot is hot.

As for heat, gas ring below pot and blow tourch to really heat the thing up [300dec C hot]

with this rig, I produce some thing like 10 000 weights a year, last order was 3 000 oz in weights, the handle will last about 4 tanks of gas before being replaced.

PS. Put on all saftey gear please as the lead WILL BURN THUR YOUR SHIN quicker than you could shake it off, and eyes cannot be replaced.

Dave

Another tip I got recently was to use short bits of copper pipe instead of a mould, simply flatten one end and fill with lead. Use a piece of wire to form a handle on the open end, or after cooling drill a hole in the flat end for attachment.

Do a lot of lead making myself. The most important thing is to make sure the floor and bench etc. is covered. spills often happen as if you burn your hand or something the first reaction is to drop the lead! Prepare the area first! I use an old bean can as a melting pot. clean it out and put on the stove to evaporate all moisture first. this is good as the it heats up fast and when off the stove does not take long to regain its heat again. It holds enough lead at one time to fill a multi weight mould and yet is not too heavy to shift around when full of lead... It can also be chucked out after the job especially good when the lead source is dirty and there is a lot of slag. Most important for efficiency is keeping the moulds hot. this is the biggest slowing down factor as the leads will solidify early if they are not hot when pouring into them. Use a pliers to hold the bean can and have a heavy glove ready for moving the moulds about from the hob to the work bench. preperation is the key and allows things to run smoothly. this prevents blunders. Also as stated above keep the area well ventilated as lead is highly poisonous and causes brain damage.

The price one would pay for a mold or moulds. I believe it is not worth messing with sand and coat hangers, I buy my brass loops for boat leads and the heavy duty one for the shore. Better be safe than sorry.
dingbat

Another way is if you have those pointy light bulbs, not your big round ones, the other ones that you can get in a spiral effect, etc. When they go, which they very frequently do, carefully break the metal connection so as to just leave the glass. Place the glass in sand and compact the sand around it....melt the lead and pour. Only good for one lead, but it works.
My nephew recently made moulds in his metalwork class in school.....works a treat! So if any of the family are in secondary and are doing metalwork.....sin é!

The price one would pay for a mold or moulds. I believe it is not worth messing with sand and coat hangers, I buy my brass loops for boat leads and the heavy duty one for the shore. Better be safe than sorry.
dingbat

Hot lead and wet sand dont mix

Those brass loops are a waste of money. I use galvanised wire which is better as you can cut the length any way you want, bend an anchor bend into the end so it does not come loose from the lead and it costs nothing. Those brass loops are just a gimmick to make you spend...

Why use brass? Most people are going to lose their leads in a short period of time anyway.

I suppose I use brass loops, because i am to lazy to strip,cut and bend copper wire or galavanised wire, plus my angling shop wants leads from me sometimes and I get them at a reasonable rate. I hope everyone caught plenty of fish over Christmas. Have a happy and safe New Year
Dingbat

I really wanted to know how to make weights. Can anybody tell me where i might get the proper moulds ?? Also is the fishing any good this time of year.badly need something nice for the dinner.blue in the face from pheasants,duck ect.

you should be able to get the moulds in any tackle shop.

nige

When I worked on the boats, we used to make our own leads... 2Ft of Wood about 5x5cm, Drill a hole approx. 3cm into it with one of those weirdo drill bits so you have a hole approximately 1.75cm in Dialmeter...
Take a Zimmer frame, and angle Grind off the required Length of leg, and place into the aformentioned hole, Pour Molten Lead into Zimmer bit, While Holding your Loop (Telephone Wire is good) in with a pair of looooooong nose Pliers(requires 2 People). Walla, Cheap Shiny Boat Lead that sorta works like a Pirk too.

Veals have them:

http://veals.co.uk/acatalog/Veals_Catal ... s_112.html