best for new start to multiplier rods and reels.

Been fishing for 8 mnth now using fixed reel kit, but wish to move up to multiplier stuff.
I was ordering k2 rods or zips but have been told to try a lower cost rod and reel incase i dont take to it strait away.
Can anyone suggest a mid range rod and reel for me to start on.

I have seen on ebay a storm rod and a fladen warbird rod but dont know enough so please help.

Also what is a reducer and whats it for.

cheers

a reducer is used when you use the reel in the low position on the rod and helps make it more comfortable to reel in again.it is an extension which goes in the bottom of the rod.as for reel i would go for a abu mag elite it has duel brakeing mags and centrafugal,this will help prevent over runs or birds nests,and is also a comfortable size to use.don,t over fill the reel with line which is a very common mistake when starting of with a multiplier reel.as for a rod it is all down to personal choice,what suits one person will not suit everyone.if you lived a bit closer to me i would take you out and show you what i mean.

Thank you very much good tips

Do you know any mid range brands in rods to go for

This is a really hard question to answer.
Best advice, if your not in a rush, is to try before you buy.
Can you join a local club? What type of gear is being used on your marks?
Then, there is the type of fishing you are going to do, as all rods differ.
If you do opt for decent rods (Zziplex) and reels (Abu's), then if you find its not for you, you will always be able to sell decent gear on.
Not really the answers your looking for, but hope it helps.

Try a Penn 525 Mag and a Daiwa Supercast X rod.

Its a lovely combination and a dream to cast with, very forgiving. The rod also has a lovely action. You should also be able to pick up the pair through the uk for a very decent price.

What do others think?

Hi Pookie,

Been fishing for 8 mnth now using fixed reel kit, but wish to move up to multiplier stuff.

Why do you want to change over to a multiplier? Do you realize how much frustration and expense (spools of line) you are going to have to put up with until you get used of casting with a multiplier? Not trying to be smart or anything but I personally wouldn't rush to change over to using a multiplier and I've been fishing since I was ten (which isn't today or yesterday). Have you looked into the pros and cons of going down this road, as there are a lot of cons?

Hi Pookie ,
Do take note of Adrian's questions/comments . I really fancy the idea of multiplier but have never been able to get on with them - birds nests , crack offs , tuning , general frustration . I'm pretty average with the fixed spool but can at least get the bait in the water .
Think the simple answer is that you need to cast with a smoother action . If anyone can tell or show me how I'd be delighted .Need to remember the saying about old dogs/new tricks tho' . You might not have the same problem .
Best of luck
nick

Thank you for advice most welcome.

Can you suggest how to go about getting further with a fixed spool reel then and any good ones you know off

hi pookie ,
Further than what ? Out of the box / distance / other type of reel ?
I wouldn't be the best to give you advice - unfortunately never got much beyond the 50 yd overhead thump - but if you are more specific about the question I am sure someone else will post really useful info/tips .
all the best
nick

Hi Pookie,

Here's a rundown on how your tackle effects your casting distance:

Line
The surest way of increasing your distance is to decrease the diameter of your line, from comments you made in other threads you fish clean ground :?: you should use 15lb bs, if you are using greater than this making the switch will increase your distance. Changing to 20lb braid (about the same thickness as 5 or 6lb mono I think) should get you even further.

Weight
Are you using the correct weight for your rod :?: Underloading the rod with too little weight will not allow the rod do it's job.
Overloading the rod will greatly decrease your distance as well.
Try a range of weights and see what works best with the rod. I've found that sometimes the upper weight rating can be a bit too much.

Rod
For a given line breaking strain and weight the distance you cast depends mainly on your technique and the rod you are using, if your technique is good enough to cast say 100yds and you are using an unsuitable rod then you won't cast 100yds, imagine it like this, if you tried to cast with a 6ft boat rod you may manage to cast 20yds, switching to a 7ft spinning rod may allow you to cast 50yds increasing the length of the spinning rod to 10ft you may get to 60 or 70yds, 12ft spin/beach caster should get you further.
Also the flexability (For want of a better word) of the rod you are using can make a big difference. If you had a selection of 9ft spinning rods for example which were all designed for the same casting weight you will find that for repeated casting you would be able to sort them by the distance you are hitting and there may be quite a difference between the best and the worst. However if you tried the same test with a different weight you may find that the order is different. And if another angler repeated the test you will more than likely find that the order is different again.
You need to find the rod that suits you.

Reel
I can guarantee you that if you pick any one rod and try different reels (Using same line and weight) the distance you cast won't vary by much. If you become really really good at casting then the right reel would give you an edge, but at our level it's not going to make any noticeable difference.

Technique
Not a piece of tackle but it is the one thing which will have the greatest bearing on how far you cast. This is something you will need to work on, I'm no expert and it's very hard to describe, but try and follow these three basic steps:

1. Keep your swing smooth, very important, start off slowly at first build up your speed over time.
2. Keep in contact with the lead, the line from the end of the rod to the lead should be taut at all times.
3. Let go at the right time, point the rod where you want the lead to go, when the length of line between the end of the rod and the lead is in line
with the rod, let go, this will come with practice.

Probably the best way to inprove your casting is to do some spinning.

Sorry that was me :oops: , login must have timed out.

Hi Adrian ,
Really good reply , mate . Could you recommend a spinning rod that would be good for distance with the really light lures - Mepps , small Toby type of thing ? Don't want to side-track Pookie's thread so will open a separate one .
Many thanks
nick

Mate thank you for taking time to write all that and great stuff,

Dont worry about sidelining i need that advice too

I have a k2 extreme blue metal 4.5 mtr and an okuma aexon, you could try out at the meet .... I use them at night because multipliers arent the easiest things to cast with in the dark

b0ogaloo

I have a k2 extreme blue metal 4.5 mtr and an okuma aexon, you could try out at the meet .... I use them at night because multipliers arent the easiest things to cast with in the dark

b0ogaloo

I offered the man a throw with the K2 Team Xtreme, from what i remember he didnt take the opertunity. Pooks I'd say Im right in saying your going to be doing most of your fishing over clean ground and beaches, therefore, one of the new continental style rods, could suit you to a Tee, Grauvell Rods, Greys Triplex and the K2 Range, are probably a good place to look. Along with a High quality Fixed Spool you'll be firing leads like a pro...

A lot of work goes into tuning a multiplier, Spool balance, Brakes, Bearings, all have to be taken into account, You'll curse the word 'Birdsnest' for Weeks, Maybe months!

But if you've got your heart set on a multiplier Setup to love and cherish like a family member, I'd say the Penn Surfblaster Outasight/Penn Supermag Combo, Which'll set you back two and a Half Hunner Squidlers.

[quote="beachcaster"]a reducer is used when you use the reel in the low position on the rod and helps make it more comfortable to reel in again.

No offense meant Beachcaster, the real reason for a reducer and the reason it is called a reducer and not an extension.

Back in the late 60's when most anglers in the UK were copying the South African style of rod that had a very thick butt section for the power needed, this made it hard to grip the reel. Terry Carrol and Neil Mackellow developed the reducer to reduce the diameter while casting with the reel in the low position. The reel was fitted to the reducer with coasters and made it easy to grip in the reel down position. An added bonus if you got a crack-off, you just removed the reducer and put another already with reel into the rod.

Tom.

hi rockhopper no offence taken mate ,that was long before my time and the diameter of rods has come down now to some less than an inch.so you should have no problem getting you thumb around the reel now,i know it extends the rod but i have always heard it called a reducer even firms like diawa advertise rods with reducers and not extensions!!!!!!