multiplier questions

considering exploring the world of multipliers since I accidentally bought a rod with compromise ringing at the swords show and am thinking "what the hell"
I have some questions about the abu 6500 series - can somebody explain to me what the difference between all the 6500 reels is? I've seen CS, CT, CS and CT, mag , mag elite and sports mag all under the 6500 umbrella and have no idea what any of them means. Which model does what, and which model might be the best for someone thinking of buying their first multiplier reel?

also, from picking up and playing with multipliers and from trolling in mexico with penn senators I've noticed that most have the handle on the right hand side. When i've fished with fly and fs reels I've always had the handle on the left and I reckon the other way around would be really hard to get used to. Is it? why are most multipliers designed this way? Would I be advised thinking about a left-handed reel - even though I'm not left-handed, just used to winding in with my left hand and holding the rod with my right...

thanks

Rockyb,

Take your FS reel and change the handle onto the right hand side and try that for a while and see if you find it difficult.

don't know if this helps but,

i fished with a fixed spool with left hand retrieve for over 10years. put the handle on right hand retrieve and i just couldn't do it comfortably at all. however my multipliers are right hand retrieve and i have no problems with them at all?! i think it must be there smaller size, or even just that they sit closer to the blank?? but whatever it is it's easy! even try them out in a shop, you'll know straight away if it's not for you.

adrian
yeah I've tried that it feels all wrong. I just feel awkard trying to manouevre a rod with me left hand.
Anybody know why it is that most people fish fs with left and but multipliers are on the right?
having said all that I went rock-hopping on clear island last summer with a mate who's not an angler but I had a spare spinning rod and gave it to him. He's right-handed and said was I sure the handle should be on the left side because it felt all wrong to him.
I said that's just the way I use and change it round to whichever way he wants.

Rocky,

I have to admit I never tried that myself, but same as m.b3 I have always used FS reels with the handle on the left and the only multiplier I have (used with boat rod) is right hand and I don't have a problem with it.
Probably would be easier to use a right hand multiplier that a right hand FS as M.b3 suggested as the effective length of the handle is much shorter.

Going back to your original question..

I have some questions about the abu 6500 series - can somebody explain to me what the difference between all the 6500 reels is? I've seen CS, CT, CS and CT, mag , mag elite and sports mag all under the 6500 umbrella and have no idea what any of them means. Which model does what, and which model might be the best for someone thinking of buying their first multiplier reel?

The CS reels all have a level-wind which means that the reel puts the line on the spool nice and level as you reel in. The CT's, Penn 525 Mag, Daiwa SL20SH etc, don't have the level wind facility. The sacrifice you make for having the level wind is distance. The friction caused by the line passing through the level wind on the way out, slows the line down and reduces distance. This is the reason most people will take the level wind mechanism off their CS reels. Once you get used to the multiplier, laying the line is easy. You basically pass the line through your thumb and finger and move it side to side as you reel in so the line lay is even.

ABU have a tendancy to rename their products on an annual basis with a few minor changes, which adds to the confusion a little. The ABU's generally are a very smooth running reel, but slower on the retrieve than say the SL20SH or the Penn 525's. The 525's also have more chunky internals which are better for rough ground work. The ABU's have a big following for distance shooters and for the smoothness of their reels.

The MAG part of it is the means of controlling the speed of the reel. A reel with magnets on allows you to speed up or slow down the reel both before and during the cast. You can put more magnets on to help prevent the dreaded birdsnest which is caused by the spool running faster than the line is going out. Then you can reduce the magnets to improve distance.

All of this can sound a bit daunting to begin with, but you are better going for a reel without the line guide and with magnets to help you get used to the reel.

As for birdies, the two most common causes are a jerky cast and secondly, by not stopping the spool with your thumb as soon as the lead hits the water.

Hope this helps.

Ian

thanks ian.
that clears things up a lot, I didn't cop that the cs meant that it had a levelwind.
some of them have up to four inbuilt braking systems, right?

and forgive another stupid question, but a reel like a 6500 will have a mechanism to instantly engage the drag to a predetermined setting after casting, or will it not?

Yup. There is a button which you press to disengage the spool. Set the magnets, put your thumb on the spool, push the button, do a nice smooth cast (keeping your arms away from your body) and slam your thumb on the spool as soon as the lead hits. When you turn the handle, the spool engages and off you go.


The mags control the spool during the cast. The centrifugal brakes act as a spool control during the initial part of the cast to keep the line release and the spool speed in line.

Another tip on multipliers is to be careful not to put too much line on when you first fill the spool. Some multipliers like about 2mm shy of the spool lip. Whatever you do, make your first cast with a newly loaded spool a gentle one with plenty of magnets. Lay the line under tension and it will bed in properly.

For distance, size matters. Find a nice line with a small diameter and a breaking strain to match you fishing. 20lb plus for rock marks. 15lb is usually good for clean beach.

IDPearl will kill me for this!! sorry for butting in!! Rocky don't be afraid to have the line lay a good 5mm down from the spool lip. you will loose little distance fishing this way and your reel will behave better when casting into strong winds. it will also help avoid birdies whilst getting used to using multipliers (getting a good line lay, a smooth cast and the like). fishing is about fishing not casting!!!

"When you turn the handle, the spool engages and off you go"

aaaa! (lightbulb over head, dawn of realisation etc.)

Right, gotcha. I had been wondering that actually.

thanks lads, savage information there I don't feel half as thick as I did this morning.
as to the merits of whether the spool should be filled to 2 or 5 mm under the lip, I'll be diplomatic and say that's probably one of the things where experiment and find out for yourself what suits you ... :) [/quote]

Rocky, if you are going ahead with a purchase try Ed at [url]http://www.jacksonlures.com[/url]. I got a 6500 Sports Mag for EUR117 all in. It was delivered within 10 days and he forwarded me a replacement mag holder free gratis when I reported it faulty. He sourced the reel for me even thought it wasn't on his catalogue. I cannot recommend him enough and I would be astonished of you can match the price either here or in the UK.

thanks declan I'll keep it in mind - 117 sounds good compared to 179 at the tackle shop down the street (who are usually brilliant on prices though it has to be said).
having said that I had a snuffle around on ebay yesterday checking out prices and saw a new 6500 ct mag elite (i think. It was green) for 65 sterling - which is 93 euro. Add on a few quid for p&p but still it's not bad.

Sorry for interupting lads. Is there a big difference in casting distance, when using a multiplier, rather then a fixed spool reel????????? Sorry if the question sounds a little silly, for the pro's on this site, but a little new to it all, and ive always used a fixed spool reel, and the distance ive been getting are below average compared to some peoples on this site. Thanks.

From what I can gather, some distance casters use fixed spool. Check out that "talkin japanese" thread of mine a few weeks back. http://www.sea-angling-ireland.org/bull ... php?t=1898


I've varied my casting style a fair bit lately. You can put a whole heap of effort in for little reward. Try it another way and hurl the lead out and you can get a good distance. A competent caster, however will make it look so smooth and easy, it's hard to believe the lead will go that far on such a simple casting style. It is similar to a golf swing in some ways - a contradiction. You can take a huge swing at a golf ball and really try to whack it, only to watch the ball drop within the 100 yard zone, if that!

Smooth out the cast, slow it down, keep your arms away from your body, bring the power in slow - there's a whole heap of things to remember!

once you've mastered your casting style, a multiplier will beat an fs though, right?

in a fishing situation the answer is a narrow yes. fixed spools are well able to keep up- once the set up is right and also the all important cast.

Thanks lads. Ive never had problems catching fish from the distances ive been casting to, but im always thinking about the 'big one', that extra few yards away! Cheers. From what youve said IDPEARL, i'll take a bit more time concentrating on my technigue, cheers

Codswollap, if you put the effort in you will eventually get there. the most important thing is to really really want to do it. you have then set yourself a target that you will always be working towards, whether u know it or not!! try reading up on the subject. Neil Mackellow is a great man and a good one to pay attention too. no rubbish, just straightforward advice. go to the home page on his site and you can ask him questions when stuck. the photage of him casting is a good help. pay particular attention to his arms and stance at particular pionts in cast. don't give up as it really can all fall into place overnight.

Thanks for the advice mb.3, great help, i'll keep you posted, should be doing a bit this weekend.

Just to add a few points I have noticed. Not putting enough line on a multiplier will not only effect your cast but the retrieve will also be that little bit slower. Have you ever noticed how, when you have lost some line that it takes that little bit longer to reel in and also your casts drop off. This is important over rough ground as you will often need to get the line moving quickly to clear the snags. So get a good fill on without over doing it as mentioned somewhere earlier along the line. Yes there is less chance of a tangle with less line but if the brakes are set correctly then all should be OK as long as you keep it smooth. You should also make sure the spool is not too loose and tighten as necessary. The way I was shown to adjust my reel for normal fishing by a pro was to tighten the spool reasonably (at the side of the reel beside the stargrag) well and stand with the rod held high with just a weigh hanging from the line, then release the line. If all is set correctly the spool should just ovewrun slightly when the weight hits the ground. If not then adjust and try again until this is achieved. I dont know if that sounds right but without the aid of a diagram it is hard to explain.